Sewing While Pregnant-All Well Studio Pants
I had saved some of my favorites of clothes that fit me in my last two pregnancies including two pairs of jeans. I’m a jeans person so I pretty much lived in these, but for some reason this time around I just can’t do it. Even though my size hasn’t changed all that much they are just not comfortable. So, with the weather being cold (cold for Tucson) I was very much missing some pants that were very comfortable, but also not just leggings.
I had bought this Viscose Linen Noil, from Blackbird Fabrics, prior to knowing I was pregnant (this is one of my favorite fabrics) and my plan all along was to make a woven jogger type pant so I figured I should try and make a pair of pants that would work for pregnancy and postpartum. At first, I struggled to figure out which pattern to use. Non-Pregnancy I probably would have gone with the Arden pants, by Helen’s closet, but I was worried the rise might be too high for me, since under the belly feels so much more comfortable. I attempted to muslin a pair of woven Hudson pants since that lower rise is what works for me right now, but I just didn’t like the fit in a woven even with sizing up. I had recently purchased the All Well Workshop Studio Pants. Although these are also a higher rise, since the pockets are patch pockets instead of integrated into the side seams, I knew it would be a much easier process to make adjustments. While not exactly a jogger I was enamored with the relaxed, but tapered look and was excited to try these out. I also really loved supporting this indie designer because they offer a pay what you can system for this pattern. Meaning you can pay $0, $5, or $10 depending on your budget/circumstances. This pattern also ranges from a 32”-70” hip which is an amazing range and I want to support brands that design with inclusivity and the entire sewing community in mind. This pattern also has two different pocket options and two different waist band styles as well.
I muslined these first so that I could get the fit just right. For reference my current measurements are waist: 33, belly: 38, and hip: 41 inches. I am currently 24 weeks pregnant and I am 5’1. I decided to start with sewing the size e, I think in a muslin it’s helpful to size up if you’re not sure what size to go with, because you can always take things in and for me, I wanted to make sure I had more room to start with to accommodate my changing body. My biggest take away from sewing while pregnant is to sew straight sizes, meaning I don’t grade between sizes like I normally do from the waist to the hip. So far this has given me the extra room I need for my belly with most garments that I’ve made. I was really happy with the overall fit of the muslin, but here are the changes I made:
Shortened the front and back rise by 1 inch
Shortened the length of the front and back legs by 1 inch
Took ¼ inch off the side seam of the front and back legs.
Used 2-inch elastic for the waist band instead of 1.5
I went with the full elastic waist band and the slanted pockets. I didn’t do any topstitching on the waist band, because when I’m not pregnant anymore I will probably adjust the elastic so I wanted to make that process easier for myself instead of having to unpick multiple rows of stitching. I could hardly contain my excitement when I tried these pants on. The rise worked out really well in that right now I can have it around my belly, but I can easily slide it under the belly more without having an excess of fabric in my crotch. My pockets droop the tiniest bit, but this is really because I picked a soft drapey fabric as opposed to something more structured like a twill or canvas, which is what is intended for this pattern. I personally just wanted something a little more drapey and soft. When I make these pants again, when I’m not pregnant anymore, I’d still shorten the length of the legs, but I’d probably leave the rise alone and maybe size down to the size d.
If you haven’t realized yet I love these pants. For me these pants are a perfect palate cleanser for sewing because they have minimal pattern pieces and I sewed them up in 2 hours. I also think the instructions are great and there is so much detail for getting the fit right and how to make a muslin, which is so helpful if you are a beginner sewist. I think I’d love to make another linen pair to wear now, but I am also dreaming about a canvas pair in the future. I still miss jeans and high waisted pants, but these filled a void in my wardrobe and for that I’m very happy.